Is this a diamond, or a “white stone”? what to look for, while in your presence of your retail customer!

A potential store client walks in and wants you to remake her diamond ring jewellery, it has numerous diamonds in this ring. What are dealing with? This might be a “ring from Hades” if these diamonds not fully properly investigated! Store owner; please be aware of possible errors in assuming that each white stone might […]

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Emotions do not belong in a retail jewelry store!

You are owning a jewellery store and your staff are preparing new inventory. They show you a few rings that are not selling, these are my own thoughts on this subject. A well known jeweller in America gave his exact feelings on this topic. Don’t get married to your jewellery, let the client do this, […]

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“Star-Cut” pattern! You are a “Star” if you can cut this!

On a rating of 10 of difficulty, I’d rate this process of cutting of this ‘Star Shape setting’ at a definite 13+. Although it appears infinitely difficult, it might be for the untrained and the novice. There are many instances where the ‘hand and eye’ are used as “a unit”. It is here, that I […]

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Pin-Vise a.k.a. “Mini, Setting-Clamp”

Instead of using shellac and its inherent cleaning problems, there is another little item you can find in any jewellery supplier. It’s a pin-vise; this essay details all of it’s many capabilities. As you can see, I used a wooden handle for easier holding, or clamping of items! Some time ago I was inundated with […]

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What is a Diamond Setter?

Some of Gerry’s Personal Notes and Observations!!! What is a Diamond Setter? He is a skilled craftsperson who is aware of the following disciplines. The composition of alloys, use of levers, tension of metals, use of fulcrums, density of various working metals. He should have some working knowledge of soldering principles, uses of abrasive compounds, […]

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Quick tip: How to remove broken CZ’s from “set in wax” casting?

I won’t go into how they break, they just do!  That is not my topic to discuss at this present time but they do!  The question is how to get them out. From many years of experience in this style of unsetting, you must use extra eye care. When you are tackling this stone while […]

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Quick tip: Avoid jagged cutting edge look in a gypsy or flush setting

What is one of the causes of a “rippling or jagged” effect around an inside cutting edge in a Gypsy or Flush setting? How can this be avoided? When an edge of a cutting tool (of any shape) glances over or hits a facet it will ride above that face.  In turn,  it will transfer […]

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Quick Tip: Checking for security for loose diamonds

I read in one major monthly jewellery trade magazine that is correct to use a pair of metal tweezers and grip the girdle and rotate the stoneduh? How about breaking off the girdle of that stone? I have just one word for you DON’T. My friend who used to be a diamond setter was setting […]

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Tools that are needed for correct diamond setting

Optical-visor w/ #5 lens attached, use #7 lens as a ‘stand-by’ for detailed work. Saw frame with adjustable length (if possible) # 4/0 saw blades, I usually buy a gross (144), its cheaper this way! “Arkansas”, 8 inch, “double sided”, oil stone Bud burs, I use basically # 006 -> # 012, only! Ball burs, […]

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Bead Dazzled – Modifying Burnishers for Safer Bead Setting

Does the thought of burnishing bead tips that are right up against a fragile gemstone make you break out in hives? It’s perfectly normal for your heart to stop for a moment while you contemplate the scenario of crunching the crown or girdle facets of that expensive stone. What do you do to get those […]

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