Student of the Week- Lynn Slutsky

SumoMe

22k Gold and Rubies Bracelets

Congratulations to our latest Student of the Week-Lynn Slutsky. These two beautiful bracelets came out great due to some artful reticulation and some well done soldering. Let’s talk about both.

Traditionally reticulation (decorative melting) is done on an alloy with increased levels of copper to maximize the hills and valleys. However, sometimes the goal is to obtain an organic feel and maximum texture is not necessary. The 22k gold used here has only 11 grains of copper per ounce but the result is very effective. The lessened copper level make the melting process much more controllable and the piece can be melted again and again until just the right texture is achieved. Copper drastically lowers the melting point of gold or silver. Also the gap between controlled melting and one big puddle is reduced, making it easier to cross the line from reticulated effect to ruined. Another really key element to these bracelets is how the bezels were soldered in. In pieces like this solder should never be added from the front, only the back. Once a bezel was fitted in, solder was placed on the seam from the inside of the bracelet and the torch positioned from the front. Since solder follows the most heat, it will fill the seam and conform to the irregular edge of the bracelet. If you add solder from the front it will require sanding which will interfere with the look of the reticulation. The only clean up necessary should be on the inside where things can be flush without ruining the effect. Lynn did a beautiful job with her bracelets, enjoy!