Jewelry Arts Institute’s Student of the Week- Lillian Meyers

 Congratulations to our latest student of the Week-Lillian Meyers.  We have been having an ongoing discussion about the difference between using wax or metals techniques in your design.  These great earrings by Lillian are a perfect example of a design that is far better done in metals.  Granulation is an ancient technique that I think never looks quite right if it is cast.  Not that the ancients didn’t cast jewelry but casting tends to fill in a lot of the little negative spaces that give it charm.  I’ve used wax to create a granulated effect but it never seems quite right.  Granulation is quite a challenge so here are a few tips Lillian used to get it done.

Besides the fusing part that comes later, the biggest challenge at first is to choose the right size for your granules.  We usually have our students use dividers and mark and cut thin fine silver sheet (.010) and melt them to test out some sizes that will hopefully look good with their stone.  The real trick is, no one can calculate exactly what size granule will fit perfectly around the bezel with no spaces.  This is where the slight variation in the cutting of your granule sheet comes in handy.  A good part of the prep time is spent replacing a few slightly larger granules with slightly smaller granules or vice verse until they fill the space completely and all touch the bezel.  Unfortunately, there is no special trick for this.  It just takes time.  Many people will pumice the backsheet before setting up the granules to create a matt finish.  This takes away the shiny finish created by fusing down the bezel so it is easier to see when the backsheet flows during granulation.  I usually just use the lid of the kiln to cast a shadow so I can see the metal flow but whatever it takes to see what is going on.  I also recommend sitting right in front of the kiln if you are having a hard time seeing.  Standing up puts your eyes a few extra feet away from the action and might make all the difference for you.  Lillian conquered all these challenges and more.  Well done.