Reprinted with permission of GIA – will appear in the Summer 2016 issue ofGems & Gemology.
Examination of the Largest Canadian Diamond
John King, Kyaw Soe Moe, and Wuyi Wang
With the first major discoveries made 25 years ago, diamond mining in Canada is relatively new. The Diavik mine, located in the Northwest Territories about 300 kilometers (190 miles) northeast of Yellowknife, went under construction in 2001 and began production in 2003. Today Diavik is Canada’s largest diamond mine by volume, producing approximately six to seven million carats of gem-quality diamonds annually. Much has been reported about Diavik’s extensive efforts to ensure the long-term protection of the land, water, and wildlife that are integral to local traditions and daily life in the Northwest Territories.
Adding to the significance of the Diavik mine was the August 2015 recovery of the largest rough diamond ever found in Canada. GIA’s laboratory in New York recently had the opportunity to study this historic stone. The rough weighed 187.66 ct and measured 36.96 × 32.99 × 16.80 mm. Under standard color grading lighting conditions, it appeared pale yellow (figure 1). One side of the diamond displayed clear iridescent color banding due to light interference along the cleavage planes (figure 2, left). The stone showed irregular morphology, with a tabular shape, and was dominated by cleavage faces. Some original faces with dissolution pits were clearly visible (figure 2, center).
Figure 1. This pale yellow type Ia “cape” diamond from the Diavik mine, weighing 187.66 ct, is the largest Canadian diamond to date. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.
When observed under a gemological microscope, the irregular surface etching limited our ability to see clearly into all areas of the diamond. A dark mineral inclusion was noted near one side of the rough (figure 2, right), but little else was readily apparent. Crossed polarizing plates did not reveal any areas of strain. The stone exhibited moderate blue fluorescence to long-wave UV radiation and faint yellow fluorescence to short-wave UV; no phosphorescence was observed. Absorption spectroscopy in the infrared region revealed that it was a type Ia diamond with a very high concentration of nitrogen. A weak hydrogen-related absorption at 3107 cm–1 was also recorded. UV visible absorption spectroscopy, performed at liquid nitrogen temperature, showed typical “cape” lines, with clear absorption peaks at 415 and 478 nm. No other absorption was detected in the UV-Vis region. These gemological and spectroscopic observations confirmed that this was a natural, untreated diamond.
Figure 2. Iridescent color can be seen along the cleavage plane on one side of the stone (left). Dissolution pits are observed on the surface of the yellow rough (center), and a dark mineral inclusion is clearly visible near the surface (right). Photomicrographs by Kyaw Soe Moe; field of view 14.52 mm (left), 4.79 mm (center), and 7.19 mm (right).
The diamond will undergo further scrutiny during the cutting process, in which it will be carefully designed, shaped, faceted, and polished. It will be interesting to see if the rough yields a significant main diamond or is cut into several smaller gems.
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
John King is chief quality officer, Kyaw Soe Moe is a researcher, and Wuyi Wang is director of research and development at GIA’s New York laboratory.
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The Diamond Empowerment Fund (D.E.F) introduces a new design for its iconic Green Bracelet. The original Green Bracelet, with its malachite beads and rough diamond charm accent, was designed in 2007 as a symbol of support for the many good works the diamond industry does around the world.
To develop the updated bracelet, D.E.F. held a competition among the designers of The COUTURE Show – a highly curated group of designers each with a distinctive point of view.
Design entries were required to be unisex in style, “give a nod” to the first D.E.F bracelet, contain both a diamond and the color green, and have a retail price point of approximately $125 to allow for a portion of proceeds to be donated to D.E.F. Most important to the organization’s mission, designs must be Kimberley Process compliant.
Aside from showing support for D.E.F, the new bracelet will help draw attention to the good works being done around the world by the diamond industry and by the purchase of diamond jewelry. The message is poignant and simple: “Diamonds Do Good.”
The winning design was created by renowned designer Mark Patterson of Corona Del Mar, CA. The ‘Diamonds Do Good’ message will be underscored by his design, which is centered by a reversible, silhouetted diamond profile cast in sterling silver and plated with gold. A slice of chrysoprase sandwiched between front and back pays homage to the original malachite bracelet, and adds a splash of green below the precious metal overlay of diamond facets. The front is accented with a genuine diamond, while the back contains an artistic graphic of the Diamond Empowerment Fund’s ‘Diamonds Do Good’ message. An updated leather “rope” band encircles the wrist and is adjustable for ease of wear. The bracelet is available in two sizes to accommodate almost any consumer.
Designer Mark Patterson said, “My wife Josette Patterson and I, as always, collaborated on the design. We knew that a key element that we wanted to incorporate was making it reversible so that the inspirational message could be either a private reminder to the wearer, or a public statement to “do good”. We inscribed the message in a graffiti-like way to give it a young, hip feel. Since Josette is also a sculptor and ceramic artist, and the bracelet was being made in China, we used the Chrysoprase as a slice or “shard”, inspired by the city of Jingdizhen, China, the town where porcelain was discovered 2000 years ago.
Two other notable designers whose bracelets were competition finalists were Julie Romanenko of Just Jules, and Bibi Van der Velden, who designs jewelry under her own name.
An impressive number of entries were gathered from some of The COUTURE Show’s top designers and judged by an exclusive panel of jewelry industry notables and D.E.F supporters. Industry giant Chow Tai Fook agreed to manufacture the winning design, and part of Patterson’s prize is a trip to China with the opportunity to meet Chow Tai Fook’s managing director and visit jewelry stores in Hong Kong and Mainland China.
The new Diamonds Do Good bracelets will be available for a suggested donation of $125.00 on the organization’s website by this September, and will be available at a variety of retailers across the country in fall 2016.
To read some of the stories about how diamonds are doing good around the world visit www.diamondsdogood.com.
For more information on the Diamond Empowerment Fund and to learn how you can support good works visit www.diamondempowerment.org.
About Diamonds Do Good: an initiative of The Diamond Empowerment Fund, celebrating how diamonds do good by highlighting the social impact of programs jewelers everywhere embrace every day. The Diamonds Do Good initiative provides jewelers with online and in-store tools to help communicate these programs to customers and complement the Green Bracelet initiative.
About Diamond Empowerment Fund: The DEF is a global non-profit based in New York City and co-founded by Russell Simmons and leaders in the diamond industry in 2007 to empower diamond communities around the world. Its beneficiaries include: the African Leadership Academy, a university preparatory school in Johannesburg, South Africa, founded on the belief that ethical leadership is the key to sustainable development on the continent and drawing students from all 54 countries in Africa, the Botswana Top Achievers program that provides the top high school students countrywide the opportunity to study at a university of their choice worldwide. Graduates then return to Botswana to contribute to its economic, social and political development; Veerayatan, a model for encouraging development of responsible citizens who are educated, have strong integrity and a motivation to give back to their community. D.E.F supports students attending its colleges of Pharmacy, Business Administration and Engineering. D.E.F also supports the Diamond Development Initiative’s mobile school program in the Democratic Republic of Congo and high school scholars in Tanzania through the Flaviana Matata Foundation. www.diamondempowerment.org.
About COUTURE: the most exclusive fine jewelry and timepiece event in North America, bringing together heritage brands and renowned designers in the luxurious setting of The Wynn and Encore, Las Vegas. Catering to the world’s top retailers and most prominent media outlets, COUTURE sets itself apart with its highly curated selection of brands and distinguished attendees. http://www.thecoutureshow.com/
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Yoko London, established in 1973, is a leading luxury pearl jeweller. The brand has evolved over 42 years with three generations of one family. Renowned for their use of unique pearls in rare natural colours and exceptional sizes, the family run team consists of the finest pearl specialists in the world. The brand’s gifted European designers and craftsmen work together in the London workshop to create pieces which are at the forefront of jewellery trends, combining a contemporary aesthetic, with timeless elegance. Each pearl is hand-picked for every individual design.
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The Gemological Institute of America’s New York Campus wants you to Save the Date!
GIA’s Jewelry Career Fair will return to New York City on Monday, July 25. With dozens of gem and jewelry companies on hand looking to hire skilled and motivated professionals at every career stage. The free event is expected to draw crowds similar to last year’s event in New York, which attracted recruiters from 48 companies and more than 600 job seekers.
The recruiting and education event – which is free and open to the public – will take place at the Javits Center from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. In addition to hiring opportunities for gem and jewelry careers, there will be one-on-one career coaching with some of the industry’s brightest names.
Susan Jacques, president and CEO of GIA, will moderate the opening panel “Job Success in Today’s Market.” The panel of industry leaders will include Rahul Kadakia, International Head of Jewelry for Christie’s; Steven Lagos, Founder and Chief Creative Director for LAGOS; Natalie Tjaden of Jewelry Television; and Yancy Weinrich, Senior Vice President of JCK.
An independent nonprofit organization, GIA (Gemological Institute of America), established in 1931, is recognized as the world’s foremost authority in gemology. GIA invented the famous 4Cs of Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat Weight in the early 1950s and in 1953, created the International Diamond Grading System™ which, today, is recognized by virtually every professional jeweler in the world.
Through research, education, gemological laboratory services, and instrument development, the Institute is dedicated to ensuring the public trust in gems and jewelry by upholding the highest standards of integrity, academics, science, and professionalism. http://www.gia.edu/
