GEMDIALOGUE® CELEBRATES THIRTY YEARS

December 21, 2012

GEMDIALOGUE® CELEBRATES THIRTY YEARS 

GemDialogue® takes pleasure in announcing a celebration of thirty years of continual service to the jewelry industry with its portable color memory system. Founded in 1982, GemDialogue® offers appraisers, dealers, jewelers and gemologists a repeatable and meaningful accurate color record for gemstones and colored diamonds. 

Howard Rubin, GG, inventor and founder of GemDialogue®, spent ten years developing the color system before offering it to the trade. GemDialogue® was engineered for the gem trade to supply portable, uniform color reference points in an affordable product. It offers a practical way to communicate with others in the gem trade, when talking about gemstone colors. 

The color communication system contains 21 basic transparent color charts showing ten different saturation levels for each color. A black to gray mask as well as a brown to light brown mask is also included. The charts and the color masks offer 60,000 color possibilities for matching. 


GemDialogue® allows grading color gemstones from transparent, translucent to opaque materials. Challenging variants such as dichroic, poorly cut, or zoned material are easily color graded. Rare material such as Paraiba, Burma and Kashmir poses no difficulty in color grading using GemDialogue®. 

Howard Rubin, who passed away early in 2012, leaves a legacy to the gemstone industry for the future. GemDialogue® is currently available and in addition to the Color Chart Manual it now contains the GemDialogue® Color ToolBox, Grading Manual, and an instructional CD. 

For further information, contact Gail Brett Levine, GG, GemDialogue® Systems, Inc., P. O. Box 18, Rego Park, NY 11374, 718.897.7305 fax 718.997.9057, gblevine@gmail.com, www.GemDialogue.com.
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DEF SUPPORTS FLAVIANA MATATA FOUNDATION

December 20, 2012

DIAMOND EMPOWERMENT FUND SUPPORTS

FLAVIANA MATATA FOUNDATION 

The Diamond Empowerment Fund (DEF) has granted $10,000 to the Flaviana Matata Foundation (FMF), which empowers young orphan girls through education, skills training, and micro-finance projects in Tanzania.

Founded by international fashion model and former Miss Universe Tanzania, Flaviana Matata, the FMF (flavianamatatafoundation.org) seeks to create a future through education and improve livelihoods among the youth in Tanzania.  When you empower a girl, you empower an entire community,says Matata. Providing opportunity for these young girls will encourage others to stay in school and vastly improve their chances for employment and productive livelihoods.

Matata recently received the Face of Africa award in recognition for her outstanding leadership and dedicated service to the African community, at the African Diaspora Awards on December 8th in NYC.

Join the Diamond Empowerment Fund at its upcoming GOOD Awards on January 10thin New York, as it recognizes other leaders making a difference in Africa. Your participation will help DEFs mission to empower the next generation of leaders in Africa (goodawards.org).

About the Diamond Empowerment Fund

The Diamond Empowerment Fund is a New York based non-profit organization (EIN# 20-5967103) that raises money to fund education initiatives in African diamond-producing nations. Its beneficiaries include: CIDA City Campus, South Africas first non-profit university to offer a four-year business degree, the African Leadership Academy, a university preparatory school in Johannesburg, South Africa, founded on the belief that ethical leadership is the key to sustainable development on the continent and drawing students from all 54 countries in Africa, the Flaviana Matata Foundation, based in Tanzania, and supporting young girls and women with grants to cover education, including vocational training,  micro-finance and entrepreneurial activities and the Botswana Top Achievers program that provides the top high school students countrywide the opportunity to study at a university of their choice worldwide. Graduates then return to Botswana to contribute to its economic, social and political development.  www.diamondempowerment.org.

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Jadeite SMOKED Skinner’s Recent Fine Jewelry Auction

December 19, 2012

Skinner, Inc. announced strong results for its recent Fine Jewelry sale held on Tuesday, December 4, 2012. The highly successful sale grossed $3,693,963.00 including buyer’s premium, surpassing the pre-auction estimate high.Jadeite, Art Deco & Colo…

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Fashion Designer Kevan Hall’s 2013 Spring Collection Presented by AGTA

December 19, 2012


Fashion Designer Kevan Hall’s 2013 
Spring Collection Presented by AGTA
Los Angeles-based designer Kevan Hall unveiled his Spring 2013 collection December 5th with an intimate runway production at his atelier, presented by the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), harkening back to the salon presentations of the 1950’s.  Celebrities including Estelle, Teri Hatcher, who made it a mother-daughter date night with daughter Emerson Rose Tenney, Virginia Madsen, Mayim Bialik, Alfre Woodard, Twilight’s Christian Serratos and more were in attendance to take in the drama on the runway.  

Front row (from left to right): Erica Courtney, Alfre Woodard (True Blood), Annika Marks (The Sessions), Virginia Madsen (The Magic of Belle Isle), Teri Hatcher (Desperate Housewives), Emerson Rose Tenney, Mayim Bialik (Big Bang Theory).



Known for his modern take on glamour, Hall’s Spring 2013 collection derives inspiration from the strong colors of Fauve landscapes.  Ribbons and bows co-exist with structured silhouettes, accented with patent leather, creating an exuberant collection aimed at awakening the senses and returning to a feminine moment in fashion.  The runway presentation consisted of ready-to-wear as well as red carpet-worthy eveningwear and culminated in a passage of bridal gowns from Kevan Hall’s new White Label collection. The designer, who once helmed iconic fashion house Halston, has enjoyed success as a perennial Red Carpet favorite, dressing many of Hollywood’s leading ladies including Katherine Heigl, Vanessa Williams, Jordin Sparks, Debra Messing, First Lady Michelle Obama plus countless others.


The show was presented by The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Collection™ featuring fine jewelry by Erica Courtney, Baggins, Mark Schneider Designs, Somewhere in the Rainbow Collection and Yael Designs. “With Kevan’s obvious love of color in his designs, we thought this was a great opportunity to promote colored gemstones and pearls,” stated Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA’s CEO.  “We were able to bring together a wide variety of jewelry to accessorize Kevan’s looks from a group of AGTA Member designers, all of whom have won multiple AGTA Spectrum Awards™.”

The AGTA Collection (from left to right): Adam Graham (AGTA), Amandla Stenberg (Hunger Games), Erica Courtney (Erica Courtney, Inc.), Jacqueline Emerson (Hunger Games), Yehouda Saketkhou (Yael Designs), Anil Maloo (Baggins Pearls), and Mark Schneider (Mark Schneider Designs).


It was an evening of fun and fabulous fashion – but we were thinking that we would like to see the Jewelry Designers take the spotlight.  We didn’t forget Erica Courtney check out the feature on Erica at the event – you can find that here.

Here are a few of the Red Carpet Jewelry looks from the evening…

Somewhere in the Rainbow Collection  –   Scottsdale, AZ                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     Matched pair of cushion cut smoky topaz equaling a total of 30ct. Surrounded with 384 bead set white diamonds equaling 1.95ct. 6 round brilliant cut head set diamonds equal a total of.36ct. White gold is finished in black rhodium.
Anil Maloo Baggins, Inc.  –   Los Angeles, CA                                                                                                                                                                                                                 14K white gold earrings featuring 8.5mm Akoya Pearls, 9mm white South Sea Pearls, 10-11mm Tahitian Pearls and accented with Diamonds (2.42 ctw.).  These were this year’s Best Use of Pearl winners in the Spectrum Competition
























Yehouda Saketkhou – Yael Designs – San Francisco, CA Pacifica tanzanite (10.15 ctw) and diamond (5.29 ctw.) earrings
Mark Schneider  –  Mark Schneider Design  –  Long Beach , CA                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Platinum earrings featuring 8 freshwater Pearls accented with Diamonds (.30 ctw.). 
Platinum Entry Innovation in Business/Day Wear at the Spectrum Awards this year.
Thanks for paying attention to the jewels for a moment and now, the 2013 Spring Collection from Atelier Kevan Hall…

Kevan Hall Spring 2013 AGTA


The AGTA Collection™ participates in many events throughout the year.  Upcoming 2013 events include the Golden Globes, the Academy Awards®, the AGS Conclave, the JIC Annual Jewelry Preview and the Primetime Emmys.  All AGTA Members are eligible to participate.  If you would like more information on participating in the AGTA Collection, please contact Adam Graham (adam@agta.org) or Danielle Pelletiere (Danielle@agta.org) at the AGTA office – 214-742-4367.

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The Ten Most Outrageous Jewelry Pieces of 2012

December 18, 2012


Welcome Sharon Sussman, Dir. of Products at Brilliance…
Who says jewelry design can’t look fab without a touch of eccentricity?

Jewelry expresses our innermost feelings and intentions. A precious gem can symbolize undying love, perhaps, or mark an important milestone. It can also reveal the wearer’s own personality and eccentricity. It’s no surprise, then, that more and more people are getting their inner freaks on via some outrageous pieces of bling.

This year, we’ve seen even non-jewelry objects get encrusted with diamonds, plated with gold, and generally made to look glamorous even if their original purposes were fairly mundane.

As you may have guessed, when it comes to outrageous pieces of jewelry, the rule seems to be the bigger the better, and preferably with references copped from popular culture, geography, and historical events. Many such pieces are unique and memorable enough to command top dollar in major auction houses.

Below are my top ten jewelry pieces from 2012 that stretch the boundaries of creativity and glamour.

10. The Izmir Necklace



Encrusted with round baguette-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, mandarin garnet beads, opal beads, amethysts, rubellites, citrines, pink and purple spinels, topaz and one 50.79-carat cushion yellow sapphire set in pink gold, the necklace is a study in luxurious excess. The piece, which took hundreds of hours to compete, pays homage to the Oriental Ball and the Arabian Nights. All that adds up to one awe-inspiring piece.

9. The Dentelle Opale d’Orient Bracelet



 

Jewelry designer Victoire de Castellane went all out with the precious stone color palette to come up this brilliant piece for the Dear Dior line. It is primarily inspired by travels to the exotic and mystic Orient. It features a rich opalescent center radiating with meticulously set clusters of diamonds, rubies, tanzanites, garnets, spinelles, and spessartites set in platinum and yellow gold.

The Dentelle Opale d’Orient Bracelet is a far cry from the designer’s previous work for the My Dior collection, which featured a predominantly minimalist style.

8. The Wave Necklace



Imagine a vortex of glamour resting on your chest. Designer Harry Winston worked with a gorgeous cascade of diamonds, so that anyone wearing the Wave necklace seems to be dripping with liquid brilliance.  Featuring a jaw-dropping 60.4-carat pear shaped stone pendant, it is widely considered to be one of the more memorable pieces featured in the  Biennale des Antiquaires 2012.

7. A Drop Into the Ocean Necklace



Further inspiration from nature can be gleaned in this Wallace Chan-designed necklace.  The poetic name for this beautiful piece of jewelry does justice to the superbly crafted 379.21-carat aquamarine pendant, plus diamonds and sapphires done in streaming rivulets. The designer takes inspiration from Eastern philosophies and aesthetics, and is the only Asian to be featured in the 2012 Biennale des Antiquaires.

6.  The Boucheron Mosaique Delilah Necklace



This is a mosaic neck piece made up of an astounding 26.89-carat pink pear-shaped morganite, 112.88-carat 921 pink sapphires, 50-carat 409 princess-cut diamonds, 16.26 carats of 132 orange sapphires, and 15-carats of 118 yellow sapphires. Outrageous in its overall value and weight but decidedly sedate in design, the Boucheron Mosaique Delilah necklace is a study in carefully-executed, tasteful jewelry craftsmanship.

5.   The Cartier Platinum Panther Ring



Jewelry with a bite seems to be the Cartier premise with this fine, feline finger adornment. The almost whimsical design is set with 24.46-carat cushion cut sapphires from Sri Lanka for the panther’s “spots”. Its fur is made of encrusted diamonds; it also features the occasional onyx spots, emeralds for eyes, and an onyx nose. Definitely a roaring ring for the adventurous set!

4. The Piaget Hand-Knitted Cuff Watch with Diamonds


Piaget puts forward the kind of craftsmanship and design it has become famous and much sought-after for with this stunning piece. The painstakingly hand-twisted and knitted watch cuff features an 18k white-gold mesh, taking inspiration from, and paying homage to a similar design done in the 1970s. Set with 69 brilliant-cut diamonds and over 300 more diamonds on its face, the watch case itself is something to behold.

3. The Van Cleef & Arpels Aquarius Clip with Sapphires


The Van Cleef & Arpels trademark for seamless jewelry craftsmanship is highly evident in this piece from the company’s Zodiac line. Quirky yet professionally done, the Aquarius symbolism of the bearer of water is unmistakable, and will definitely add glamor to anyone born under this sign. Featuring clusters of diamonds, five star sapphires with a total weight of 18.28 carats, and smaller sapphires done in the Van Cleef & Arpels “Mystery Set” method, this clip is surely a better alternative to the usual birth stone jewelry.  

2. The Gangnam Celebrity Diamond Pendant



The irony of what could arguably be the most popular non-English language song of 2012, which criticizes excessive consumerist culture, might be lost on whoever commissioned this Gangnam-style diamond pendant from the Brilliance jewelry company. 6 ¼ carats of diamonds embellish this wacky piece featuring the now-famous horse-riding stance. It is a great conversation-starter piece, and a fitting, though pseudo-satirical, statement done in precious stones and set in 18k white and yellow gold.   

1. The Gollum Creature Ring


As far as geek jewelry goes, Lord of the Rings pieces are some of the most desirable. While most people would expect The One Ring to be the most noteworthy, that honor this year belongs to Badali Jewelry’s Gollum-inspired ring. The ring is available in both sterling silver and 14k gold. Gollum’s spindly arms and legs curve form the ring’s band.

Definitely an unusual, yet precious, piece.


________________________________________________

Guest author Sharon Sussman is currently the Director of Products at Brilliance, a jewelry company which specializes in certified loose diamonds, engagement rings and custom-made jewelry. A graduate of Touro College, she is also a gemologist and jeweler whose articles and advice columns have been published on notable fashion and finance blogs and sites. She can also be found on Google + and reached at sharon.sussman@brilliance.com.

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ANGLO AMERICAN GROUP FOUNDATION SUPPORTS DDI

December 17, 2012

ANGLO AMERICAN GROUP FOUNDATION
SUPPORTS DIAMOND DEVELOPMENT INITIATIVE 
                        “Enabling positive development for artisanal diamond miners and their communities”                            

The Anglo American Group Foundation (“the Foundation”) and The Diamond Development Initiative (DDI) announce that the Foundation has made a financial contribution to DDI’s work in the field of artisanal diamond production.

DDI, founded in 2007, is a non-profit charitable organisation working to improve the lives of Africa’s 1.5 million artisanal diamond diggers and their families. The alluvial diamond fields of Africa are where conflict diamonds began, and while the Kimberley Process has done much to regulate the rough diamond trade, its mandate does not extend to the development problems facing artisanal diamond diggers. DDI is working with African governments, the Kimberley Process, African civil society and the diamond industry to bring artisanal miners into the formal economies of their countries, establish fair prices and safe working conditions, end child labour and promote human rights at the grass roots of the diamond pipeline.

The Anglo American Group Foundation aims to create sustainable livelihoods, targeting communities in a holistic way to tackle multiple issues bearing in mind long term strategies and goals. In addition, the Foundation seeks collaboration with other organisations to maximiZe the impact of donations. The trustees of the Foundation include Anglo American employees who have, as a clear objective, serving the Foundation and its beneficiaries as an entity independent of the Anglo American Group.

Charlotte Edgeworth, Manager of the Foundation, commented: “Our support for the Diamond Development Initiative fits very well with our purpose to partner with leading development organisations and we are delighted to be working together.”

Dorothée Gizenga, Executive Director of DDI, commented: “Support from the Anglo American Group Foundation is very important to us. We believe that our objectives mirror those of the Foundation and that together we can bring real development to forgotten communities in Africa. The ‘fit’ for us is absolutely terrific.”

The Anglo American Group Foundation is a charitable grant giving organisation solely funded by Anglo American, a leading global mining company. 

About DDI: The Diamond Development Initiative is registered as a non-profit charitable organization in both Canada and the United States. Our charitable registration number in Canada is 84188 3606 RR0001. Our US 501(c)(3) Tax ID EIN number is 51-0616171. DDI’s executive office is located in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.
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Vendor Spotlight: Samantha Louise Designs

December 17, 2012

Today the Spotlight Shines on Samantha Louise Designshttp://samanthalouisedesign.comThis would be a GREAT Spring gift line for any Jewelry Store or Boutique …can’t you see these pieces on a Spring or Summer Bride? Beach Wedding friendly ;)CONTACT IN…

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NAJA ANNOUNCES 2012 SCHOLARSHIP WINNER

December 15, 2012

NAJA ANNOUNCES 2012 SCHOLARSHIP WINNER

The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers (NAJA) announces the winner of the 2012 ACE© It Conference Scholarship to attend the 39th Annual ACE© It Winter Educational Conference scheduled on February 3 – 4 , 2012, Tucson AZ.                                         
                        

Ms. Kim Pascarella, Grosse Pointe Woods, MI, is the 2012 winner of the annual scholarship.  Ms. Pascarella is a current home study student at the Gemological Institute of America.  Her jewelry journey started as a retail sales associate with a large corporate company.  She is currently General Manager at Joe DiMaggio Jewelers with a rich variety of responsibilities.  Ms. Pascarella says that “I love this job.  I’m passionate about our clients and this trade.” 


The NAJA Scholarship gives a gemology student a first hand experience of networking with appraisal professionals by attending the highly regarded NAJA educational experience during a time when Tucson devotes itself to gems, jewelry, and minerals.  NAJA believes that appraising is a viable career option for students of gemology.


The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers is the largest membership association specializing exclusively in gem and jewelry appraising and related appraisal issues.  It offers education and networking opportunities with knowledgeable appraisal professionals.  

For further information on becoming a member of NAJA, attending NAJA’s Tucson education conference or the 2013 Conference Scholarship please contact: 
Gail Brett Levine, GG, Executive Director
The National Association of Jewelry Appraisers
P. O. Box 18, Rego Park, NY 11374
718.896.1536  fax 718.997.9057
naja.appraisers@netzero.net 
 www.NAJAappraisers.com.



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KP Approval Crucial to Panama’s Diamond Trade

December 13, 2012

Kimberley Process approval a critical step to Panama’s developmentas regional diamond trade center, says Minister of Commerce and IndustryPanama’s Minister of Commerce and Industry, Ricardo Quijano, has welcomed the recent unanimous decision by th…

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THE BLACKEST OF NEWS FOR SF BAY AREA PHELAN BUILDING

December 13, 2012

San Francisco to lose its status as Northern California’s jewelry center: Jewelers cleared out of Phelan Building after 100 years

From the Facebook Page – Phelan Building Survival Group…
Built in 1908 with jewelers in mind, the Phelan Building has been home to Northern California’s jewelry industry for over a century. However, since Thor Equities’ 2008 purchase of the building at the corner of Market, Grant and O’Farrell streets, jewelers have been systematically cleared out floor-by-floor to make way for new tenants. Rather than collecting rent from hundreds of tenants, Thor has shown a preference for larger corporations, which can occupy an entire floor. The building’s classic marble and oak halls with small offices have been conducive to individual goldsmiths and jewelry businesses. But this is about to end as Thor reconfigures the building to create large, open spaces preferred by modern hi-tech companies like Appirio, Voxer and the giant Sears Holdings, which now call the building home.
James D. Phelan, the former Mayor and Senator, constructed the building that bears his name immediately after the 1906 earthquake to further his vision to develop San Francisco’s culture. A passionate supporter of the arts, Phelan welcomed jewelers to his landmark building and bequeathed a cash prize for California artists that is still awarded. But now the Phelan Building is closing its doors to the artists whose creativity James Phelan thought was so crucial to the life and development of his beloved city.
Thor Equities, LLC, is a real estate development and investment firm founded by Joseph Sitt, based in New York City that specializes in revitalizing and adding value to urban properties in high-density areas. The company owns the historic Palmer House Hilton in Chicago and much of the oceanfront of Coney Island. It also owns property in New York City, Washington D.C., Philadelphia, Puerto Rico, Mexico, Boston, Atlanta, Baltimore, Norfolk VA, Miami, Chicago, Cincinnati, Boston, Detroit, San Francisco, Orlando, and Los Angeles. – From Wikipedia
No one begrudges Thor Equities its right to conduct business. However, what appear to be merely lines crossed off a spreadsheet in an attempt to bolster the bottom line, is in fact, not that simple. The Phelan Building is not just another asset, whose tenants are interchangeable. It was designed to be the home to a vibrant artisan community whose handwork and skill have been passed on by master to apprentice and is the result of years of patient practice. There are dozens of small businesses in the Phelan Building, run by expert artisans from around the world. They have thrived in the classic building and served generations of San Francisco residents. The well being of their businesses, their employees and their families, as well as their ability to serve customers effectively at the busiest time of the year, are now uncertain. They are being evicted not for cause, but to make the building attractive for large businesses, the same businesses City Hall likes to woo with tax breaks and special deals.
The irony is that the artisans and entrepreneurs being evicted pay their full share of rent to the landlord and their full share of licenses, fees, permits, and taxes to San Francisco.
It is a sign of the times: Old world vs. new. Low-tech vs. high. Mealtime vs. drive through, handwork vs. computer work, real vs. virtual. These craftsmen and craftswomen take great pride in their work. “Most of us do things the old fashioned way…by hand,” says Alan Revere, Director of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, which is being forced out after 33 years. But it is not the economy that is leaving them behind. All of those evicted have succeeded through the recession. And all of these jewelers and suppliers would like to continue to do what they know and love. And so would their customers. Unfortunately for many, this will not be possible. 
BEFORE
charming halls lined in marble…

Thor Equities Takes Over

The first thing Thor Equities did when it bought the classic downtown building was to charge tenants to receive their monthly rent bills, $5 by mail and $2 by email. When one tenant, Tereza Iñiguez of Shapes Studio mistakenly wrote her check for a penny too little, Thor aggressively hounded her with late rent notices hand delivered by security and certified mail to both her home and business until they received their payment, a check for one cent, delivered to Thor’s New York office!
Longtime loyal building employees were fired, janitorial services were trimmed, and tenants were repeatedly interrupted without warning by construction, noise, electricity, and gas shutoffs, while trying to conduct business as usual. On the service elevator, a new sign appeared, “This elevator is for freight access ONLY – Your cooperation is expected.” A feeling of hostility and tension quickly developed between management and tenants. When leases came up for renewal, Thor required tenants to sign a termination clause. This allowed the New York corporation to terminate leases without cause and on short notice, some as little as 60 days. Next Thor began clearing floors, forcing tenants to move within the building at their own expense, and then eventually kicking them out, while assuring jewelers that they would remain safe on the ninth floor.
AFTER
Stark Cubicles none of the charm remains…

Five Centuries of Rent

Despite the fact that years remain on many of the leases, Thor has demanded that its tenants leave. Those being evicted now, have paid well over five centuries of rent to the Phelan Building. In all, over one hundred small jewelry-related businesses will have been thrown out by March 1, 2013. Many of the evicted have been in the building for decades and some for generations. For most, there is little prospect of relocating and maintaining their businesses downtown, if at all.

Looking for New Space Now

San Francisco is experiencing a run-up in commercial rents right now, placing it at the top of the nation. For jewelers, many of whom require both water and gas, the prospects of remaining nearby are slim to none. And yet this group of individual business owners would like to move together into a suitable downtown location, which is safe and compatible with the needs of jewelers.

Happy Holidays – for All but Jewelers

Thor is clearing jewelers out at the most sensitive time of the year for them. This is when the Phelan Building’s tenants are busiest making jewelry, filling orders, setting diamonds and creating gifts for their customers. Many received their notice to leave on the day before Thanksgiving! They will spend their holiday season consumed with survival, not cheer. With the cost of San Francisco commercial space leading the U.S., finding a new location at this time of year is downright depressing and draining to the business owner. Instead of making treasures and gifts for others, the Phelan Building’s jewelers are just trying to cope and figure out where they will be in two months and how much it will cost them to stay in business.

James Phelan, Patron of the Arts

Businessman, political leader, patron of the arts, and philanthropist, James Duval Phelan was born in San Francisco on April 20, 1861. As one of San Francisco’s most prominent citizens, Phelan was honored on many occasions. He served as president of the Adornment Association and president of the Art Association.”
-Excerpted from the Online Archive of California 
In an open letter to the community, Mayor Phelan wrote,
“Apart from the consideration of utility, there is much to be done to make San Francisco an ideal city. There are citizens, utilitarian in their lives as well as in their aspirations, and this class must be educated to an appreciation of the beautiful, before they will give their vote and support to any movement whose end is beauty.
Then would follow museums, galleries of art, and theaters until San Francisco, by reason of its remarkable meteorological advantages, would assume the position of the most beautiful city in America, and its population the most artistic and pleasure loving, drawing to its realm myriads of strangers from year-to-year.
The influence of beauty would not be lost on the rising generation; and whereas we might at first have to import talent, thereafter our native population will be educated to such a degree of perfection, by reason of its environment, that artists and musicians, and men and women of taste would be a distinguishing part of this now cosmopolitan, but then American community.”
– San Francisco newsletter, Christmas number, 1897
The James D. Phelan Art Awards, bequeathed by the former Mayor of San Francisco and California Senator, recognize the achievements of California-born artists in a variety of disciplines and is part of the Art Awards Program of The San Francisco Foundation.
The Phelan Building at night. ©Tribute Photography

So Much for San Francisco Culture, History, Art and Architecture

Thor is literally tearing out the guts of this architectural gem, including removing the marble walls with oak trim and other architectural features, as each floor is cleared. Despite filling its floors for one hundred years, the jewelry community has been driven out. This cultural treasure cannot be saved. The Phelan Building artisans that have serviced countless customers, jewelry stores and small manufacturers in Northern California are dispersing and disappearing.

Made in San Francisco – No More

The jewelers in the Phelan building include goldsmiths, engravers, gem merchants, stone setters, repair shops, custom order businesses, and tool suppliers. These are artisans, both craftsmen and craftswomen, who use their hands to create. They already struggle against cheap foreign-made products and services. With the business climate in San Francisco leaning so far toward big companies, it is strangling the small entrepreneur. And now that many have to uproot their businesses, it is clear that a lot less will be made in San Francisco. A legacy of fine local craftsmanship is coming to an end.

Among the Departing

Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, founded in 1979 by Master Goldsmith Alan Revere, has trained over 10,000 jewelers and jewelry hobbyists from around the globe. Many consider it to be the preeminent professional jewelry school in the US. Revere has thrived on the ninth floor and has a long list of successful graduates. He has helped dozens of the school’s former students to become tenants in the Phelan Building as their skills developed. But now things look very different. 
“We watched as Thor slowly renovated floors one-by-one,” says Revere. “And we were consistently told our floor was safe. A few weeks before we received our termination notice,” he continues, ”The building manager told a room full of us that the ninth floor was reserved for small tenants and would remain the home to jewelers.” Obviously someone was misled. “Despite the fact that years remain on our lease,” Revere continues, “we have been evicted.” The prospect of relocating his unique 2000 square foot school is overwhelming. Having looked extensively in the City, Revere has come to the stark realization that his California State approved technical school needs to adapt, leave San Francisco or cease to exist, despite demand.

We Love Our Work

John Donivan and his wife Jo-Ann Maggiora Donivan (jjdon@pacbell.net) have worked together in their ninth floor jewelry studio for three decades. Both are highly skilled master jewelers who specialize in gold and platinum work for stores and private customers. They too are devastated by the idea of moving all of their equipment and tools, as well as the tragedy of having to leave the jewelry community they have worked with for decades. “I’ve been in this space for 30 years and I thought I would die here,” said John. “I don’t want to move for many reasons, one being the packing and physically hauling all of this equipment to an as-yet undetermined place. But the important thing is the big picture. All these artisans and their shops will scatter to the wind. There just will no longer be a center for jewelry in San Francisco.” A sign recently posted on their door says, “We will stay in business!! We love our clients and our work!!!”

Shapes Studio Moves Out

Tereza Iñiguez (tierramorena@earthlink.net) was forced to move her 30-year-old business, Shapes Studios Hair Salon to Sutter Street four months ago. Tereza says that as soon as Thor took over, a hostile, anti-tenant management was put in place. Her business had to shut down numerous times without warning because of plumbing, electrical and construction work being done in the building with no notice. 
When Tereza’s lease came up for renewal in 2010, she says, “Thor announced that rent would be due on 1133 square feet rather than 831 square feet as in the past, because they said it had been miscalculated for 10 years. I had to pay for 36% more square feet without gaining any space in my suite. I was strong-armed into a one-way lease favoring Thor Equities. I was forced to sign a clause, which gave Thor the ability to terminate my lease at any time, with short notice. My choices were to sign a bad lease, leave in 30 days, or stay on month-to-month at triple the rent, not much of a choice,” says Tereza. At the time, management reassured her she would not be affected by changes in the building so she went ahead and renewed. But halfway through her lease, she was kicked out with a limited time to search, relocate and move her thriving business. “It was a nightmare. It’s one thing, if you are starting or expanding a business and you planned for the expense. But this was a big shock.” She searched and found a new location but since it would not be ready in time, Tereza requested a 4-day extension. Thor refused. “I had to move my business into storage until the new space was built out. It cost me in so many ways.”
“Thor Equities works diligently not just for its financial gain, but to mow down anyone in its way,” says Tereza, now that she is clear of the Phelan Building and feels free to speak honestly. “Thor knows it can push around small businesses, which are usually just hard working individuals or families trying to survive.”

Master Craftsmen and Craftswomen Leave San Francisco

Nancy Wintrup is one of 125 jewelers in the US to achieve the status of Certified Master Bench Jeweler® by Jewelers of America, the largest jewelry trade organization in the country. Only a handful of women have achieved this level. Nancy has spent over 40 years working, “at the bench.” Formerly a member of the International Jewelers Union, where she met Alan Revere in 1975, Nancy operates her own studio and teaches at the Revere Academy, down the hall on the ninth floor.
Like the others, she will be leaving her Phelan Building office soon. “It is so sad to see the destruction of our small business community in the Phelan Building,” she says. “Thor Equities has shown itself to be a very difficult landlord. After 32 years as a tenant I will be closing my San Francisco studio.”

From a Jeweler/Tenant

Many of the Phelan Building’s tenants are reluctant to receive publicity or draw attention because of the nature of their businesses. Here are two tenants’ experiences with Thor:
After studying at the Revere Academy, I decided to get my own space in the Phelan Building so I could be near other jewelers. For several years I shared a studio and then I signed a lease for a small space on my own. I moved in, set up shop, hung cabinets, had my phone and DSL installed, the whole works. But when I returned from a weeklong business trip, I received an eviction notice. I literally had not been there for even a month when I was uprooted.
I was given until the end of August last year to move out. Luckily a suite on the ninth floor opened up. I was assured jewelers would remain there so I signed another lease. Thor agreed to install water and gas, paint and put in a new floor. But it took 6 weeks to get done. Finally in mid August, as I started to move my things up to 9, I was told I needed to wait because Thor found asbestos in my wall. So I had half my tools and equipment on one floor and half on another, while trying to do business. That’s when Thor said the asbestos removal would take several weeks longer to complete. Meanwhile I was told I had to get everything out of the old suite before end of August. So with no place to put my things, I moved it all temporarily to an empty space on another floor. The asbestos work dragged on for weeks and eventually my studio was ready to occupy. I had not been able to work efficiently all summer at this point. And now, after just one year of occupancy I have received an eviction notice.
– Anonymous tenant

From a Gem Dealer in the Phelan Building

I am a proud gem wholesaler who has been based in The Phelan Building for over half my life. This has become my second home, surrounded by many good business colleagues as neighbors. In April, I received notice from management to vacate our suite after 33 years. This came as a shock to me. Nevertheless, I was still grateful for being able to relocate to the ninth floor with fellow colleagues in my industry. But after working out of the new suite for a mere three and a half months, I just received another termination notice last week to vacate our space yet again. Not only did we just finish relocating and organizing all of our heavy equipment, but we have incurred huge moving expenses already, with much more ahead, all of which comes out of our hard-earned income. 
I understand that the landlord is not breaking the law by evicting us. However, I feel that we have been wronged by an unethical standard. A clearer warning should have been set in place if there was even a question that we were going to be sent packing again. I received eviction notice on November 20th, and now have to vacate our space in 60 days. For those of us in the jewelry business, the holiday season is the most critical time of the year for our earnings, with as much as half of our business coming in October to December.
Judging from my personal situation, this might just be an unfortunate circumstance. But in the grand scheme of things, what the landlord is doing is crushing the jewelry industry of San Francisco. When they vacated the entire 3rd and 5th floors for tenants who were able to muscle their way in by leasing entire floors, some jewelers were able to relocate, but others were forced to shut down their businesses as a result. 
Now they are vacating the entire ninth floor, which is home to several key players in the industry such as Revere Academy, our tool supplier, lapidary shop, setters and many others. These are little businesses that many retail jewelers in the region rely upon. This small community, based in The Phelan Building, has been the cornerstone of the San Francisco jewelry industry for over 100 years. It is a shame to see this tight-knit community of tenants vanish over a seemingly casual business decision made in an office three thousand miles away, one that brings extremely harsh consequences for my colleagues and me. If this note does nothing more than to add to the list of complaints from other unhappy tenants, please know this: those of us who are being evicted from The Phelan Building do not take this lightly. We are not only being forced to leave at the most critical and inconvenient of times, but we are also being stripped of our pride and dignity, which have defined who we are as San Francisco small business owners for the last three decades.
– Gem merchant in the Phelan Building

Industry Reaction from San Francisco

As proprietor of a fine jewelry gallery near Union Square, I have relied on the jewelers of the Phelan Building since opening my doors seven years ago. The artisans of the Phelan Building have been a key resource and foundation for my success. We have used many of the building’s fine craftsmen; goldsmiths, engravers, repair shops, diamond and gem setters, etc. In addition we now represent many graduates of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, which is one of the anchors and treasures of the jewelry community. When I heard that the owner was clearing the building of successful small businesses that pay their rent, I just shook my head. What has become of us?
– Peter Walsh, owner
Manika Jewelry
11 Maiden Lane
San Francisco, CA 94108
415-399-1990

Reaction from an Oakland Jeweler

For 30 years I have been coming to 760 Market Street for business. Like many in the region, I rely on the high quality goods and services of the building’s jewelry professionals. It is incomprehensible that the property owner would show such disregard for it’s long term tenants, their businesses, their families and customers. It’s a sad day when corporate profit is more important than small businesses. 
– Bill DeGroot, owner
Janko Jewelers, Oakland
510-836-1586

From a Jeweler in Oregon

I have taken many classes at Revere and wish to continue to do so. Coming to Revere Academy is an experience every jeweler remembers for life. Being internationally known within the jewelry community, Revere is a destination experience for all those who take their craft seriously. The opportunity to work and learn alongside nationally known jewelers gave me the tools to be successful. I am deeply saddened at the prospect of closing the Revere Academy. Nowhere in the United States can one find the blend of old world techniques and cutting edge skills, taught by jewelers who are true artists practicing their craft.
-Jeremy Small
Brookings, Oregon

Reaction from Dartmouth College in New Hampshire

The Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts is a preeminent American jewelry trade school. The Academy’s influence on the field of jewelry making cannot be overstated. The school has trained countless jewelers and designers. Many businesses and careers owe at least part of their success to time spent at the Revere Academy. On a personal level, I’ve had the privilege to both take classes and teach at the Academy. The school was a pivotal component in my education. I can’t imagine contemporary goldsmiths not having the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts as a resource in the future. It’s that important!
– Jeff Georgantes
Jewelry/Metals Instructor
Dartmouth College
Hanover, NH 03755
Phone: 603.646.3226 Email: t.jeffrey.georgantes@dartmouth.edu

Reaction from a Goldsmith in Scottsdale, Arizona 

The Revere Academy is far more than just a school and a place where students can learn about jewelry. Revere has created a vibrant community that stretches all the way around the world. The school has touched the lives of thousands of people in a profound and wonderful way. I am thankful to be one of those people. It has been 26 years since I first came to Revere and 8 years that I have been teaching at the Academy. It has been a significant part of my life.
– Michael David Sturlin
Scottsdale, Arizona
(480) 941-4105

Phelan Building Survival Group on Facebook

A group of customers, students and tenants have mounted a Facebook page for those involved in the mass displacement.

More from Wiki

Thor Equities is a full service real estate development and investment company whose capabilities include acquisitions, financial management, development, property management, and leasing. Thor specializes in value-added investments in shopping centers, malls and mixed-use urban projects. Today, Thor’s current portfolio of properties totals 12,000,000 square feet (1,100,000 m2) and is valued at more than $3 billion. Thor manages several property funds whose investors include pension funds, investment banks, college endowments, and foundations.[1][6] 
Quote from Bizjournal.com: “The Phelan Building, built in 1908, sits on a triangular-shaped corner between Market and O’Farrell streets. New York-based Thor Equities bought the building close to four years ago, renovated it and targeted technology tenants to fill it. “I believed San Francisco would get stronger as technology companies got stronger,” said Joe Sitt, chairman and CEO of Thor. “It played out as we expected it to play out.”… Sitt said Voxer is paying more than $50 per square foot for its space, about double what the landlord was asking a year ago.”
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