Congratulations to our latest Student of the Week- Sheila Uniti. This ring is a more advanced version of the one featured a few weeks ago by Alice Finklestein. Sheila made a sleeve for her braid and used a faceted stone. Both of these differences make the need for the right bezel height even more crucial, so I thought we would go over how to get it right.
To begin with almost any piece you start making the bezel, however, with this piece it is helpful to have the shank done first. This way you can include the height of the shank in your calculations of bezel height. We want to curve the bottom of the bezel to match the curve of the ring. To have them match beautifully we find a dowel that fits very well inside the shank you have already made to fit your finger. Sheila then put sandpaper on the dowel and sanded the bottom of her bezel on it so the curves would match up exactly. Low tech but effective. When we make a bezel for a faceted stone, we make it the height of the entire stone. Although the bezel only has to clear the girdle, the extra height we are allowing from girdle to table is the height that will keep the culet from touching the bottom of the backsheet under your setting. Even if you were leaving the back of your setting open you don’t want the culet poking you in the finger. So, to have the correct bezel height you must add up the following. The entire height of your faceted stone, the height of your shank which will be soldered into the bezel in this ring, and the height of the curve you create to match the curve of your shank. To this measurement I usually recommend adding an “oops” factor of two millimeters. This will usually ensure that any small discrepancies in your work won’t mess up your piece. In this ring a too low bezel once soldered together with the shank is irreparable. Here is to Sheila and a job well done!
jeanettecaines
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{ 4 comments… read them below or add one }
Love this ring! Beautiful and elegant!
Yes, there is a fine silver inner bezel.
That is simply beautiful – I would have no idea how to braid – also wondering – – is there an inner bezel to hold the stone?
Wonderful work! I love the color of high karat gold. Thanks to Ganoksin for all you do!