{"id":93,"date":"2010-10-11T08:47:23","date_gmt":"2010-10-11T13:47:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/jewelryartsinstitute.userblogs.ganoksin.coms\/?p=93"},"modified":"2010-10-11T08:47:23","modified_gmt":"2010-10-11T13:47:23","slug":"student-of-the-week-sheila-uniti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/userblogs.ganoksin.com\/jewelryartsinstitute\/2010\/10\/11\/student-of-the-week-sheila-uniti\/","title":{"rendered":"Student of the Week- Sheila Uniti"},"content":{"rendered":"

$\"\"$ <\/a> Congratulations to our latest Student of the Week- Sheila Uniti. \u00a0This ring is a more advanced version of the one featured a few weeks ago by Alice Finklestein. \u00a0Sheila made a sleeve for her braid and used a faceted stone. \u00a0Both of these differences make the need for the right bezel height even more crucial, so I thought we would go over how to get it right.<\/p>\n

To begin with almost any piece you start making the bezel, however, with this piece it is helpful to have the shank done first. \u00a0This way you can include the height of the shank in your calculations of bezel height. \u00a0We want to curve the bottom of the bezel to match the curve of the ring. \u00a0To have them match beautifully we find a dowel that fits very well inside the shank you have already made to fit your finger. \u00a0Sheila then put sandpaper on the dowel and sanded the bottom of her bezel on it so the curves would match up exactly. \u00a0Low tech but effective. \u00a0When we make a bezel for a faceted stone, we make it the height of the entire stone. \u00a0Although the bezel only has to clear the girdle, the extra height we are allowing from girdle to table is the height that will keep the culet from touching the bottom of the backsheet under your setting. Even if you were leaving the back of your setting open you don’t want the culet poking you in the finger. \u00a0So, to have the correct bezel height you must add up the following. \u00a0The entire height of your faceted stone, \u00a0the height of your shank which will be soldered into the bezel in this ring, \u00a0and the height of the curve you create to match the curve of your shank. \u00a0To this measurement I usually recommend adding an “oops” factor of two millimeters. \u00a0This will usually ensure that any small discrepancies in your work won’t mess up your piece. \u00a0In this ring a too low bezel \u00a0once soldered together with the shank is irreparable. \u00a0Here is to Sheila and a job well done!<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"