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Water Loving Opal from the Deserts of Ethiopia

10.91 ct. Welo Opal

We just acquired this gorgeous crystal opal from Ethiopia. Full of fiery reds and oranges, as well as golds, greens and  purples, this beauty will be the perfect drop of color for a magnificent necklace.

While it’s been known for various unusual types of opal since the early 1990’s, Ethiopia burst onto the gem scene as a major source of quality opal in just the last few years as gem fields in the desert highlands of the Welo (Wello, Wollo, Wolo) region have proven themselves. A full description of the Welo opal, titled “Play-of-Color Opal from Wegel Tena, Wollo Province, Ethiopia, is found in the Summer 2010 edition of Gems and Gemology, the scientific journal of the GIA.

The opal market has been unsettled by this exciting find– this relatively new material is being sold at prices substantially below what similar Australian opal brings. We purchased this particular gem for about 1/3 of what we would expect to pay for an Australian crystal opal.

There are several reasons why this opal is so inexpensively priced. Mainly, prices are low because the production is relatively large – opal from Welo was everywhere at the last few Tucson Gem Shows. Additionally, gem traders are very conservative by nature and have been cautious about this new gem.

Welo opal does have remarkable features. This opal displays play-of-color in very unusual patterns and colors that can be exceptionally bright. Our stone has great flashes of red and orange along with the greens and golds- red has generally been the most rare play-of-color, adding significant value to opals from other sources. Some Welo stones show color patterns are not commonly seen in opals from Australia.

A very interesting and unique characteristic of the Welo opal is that a good portion is hydrophane opal, meaning that it absorbs water like a sponge and usually changes appearance as it does so. The stones change back to their original appearance as they dry out. These changes can occur in a few minutes or may take several hours. For the most part, the Ethiopian hydrophane opals become more transparent and show their gorgeous play-of-color more beautifully.

Our stone became partially transparent along one side after soaking in water for a few hours and its weight increased to 11.5 carats — notice the clear area along the lower right edge of the stone. The stone returned to it’s “dry” appearance and weight soon after being removed from the water.

11.5 cts. after 1 hour soak in H2O

Also, the GIA article noted that Welo opals could be dropped from 3.5 meters onto a concrete floor with no visible damage. This was confirmed by the cutter who sold me this stone– he has noticed the material cuts “hard” and seems to be tougher than other types of opal which were damaged by the drop test. A definite plus that means better wearablity for this new material

Finally, while the opal from the earlier finds 125 miles to the south have shown a tendency to be unstable and develop cracks, known as crazing, the Welo material seems to be quite stable in this respect. Crazing occurs to various degrees on some opals from all major sources. Opal cutters and dealers deal with this problem in two ways, first, by avoiding material from sources known to craze and second, by making sure the opal rough has “seasoned” for at least 6 months to a year before cutting it.

As Rare Gemstone Specialists, the team at Mardon is always on the lookout for unique and unusual specimens of nature’s bounty. We think these stunning opals from the deserts of Northern Ethiopia have hit the trifecta — great beauty, good wearability, and very good prices — hard to beat that combination! Stop by the shop for an eyes-on demonstration.

 

 

 

Restoring Antique Opal Jewelry

We immediately fell in love with this sweet little opal and diamond pin of gold and platinum that was offered to us as part of an estate. A blend of Late Victorian, Art Nouveau, and Edwardian styling, the construction of fabricated platinum overlaid onto 14K yellow gold indicated the piece was made right around 1900.

When we looked closely, we saw that the crystal opal, beautifully carved as a pansy flower was broken in half, but we purchased it anyway. As avid antique jewelry buffs, we knew we could restore the piece– though damaged, the bright and beautiful opal was all there. Since the piece was in otherwise excellent condition and Art Nouveau pieces are so rare, we decided to repair the opal as best we could, and sell the item with appropriate disclaimer and pricing.

cracks in opal
cracks in opal

 

Look closely and you can even see a small triangular fragment being held in position by the lower prong. In this case, the repair was fairly straight forward. We carefully aligned the opal, then glued the pieces together with an epoxy cement. Gentle tightening of the prongs took a master touch–the key was preserving the glue joint and not creating any more damage to the opal.

After painstaking cleaning and polishing this little treasure, we knew it would be a star in our Vintage Jewelry case. Sure enough, the pin was snapped up within a few days by one of our vintage jewelry collectors.

The Estate Jewelry specialists of Mardon restore vintage pieces for many clients, using the same meticulous craftsmanship you see here. We’re always looking for good pieces of vintage jewelry for purchase, whether in good repair or not. Give us a call if you need advice on repairing or selling your Vintage or Estate jewelry.

A Custom Opal Parure

This beautiful opal ring is the final piece of a set of custom jewels we just completed. A frequent visitor of art and gem shows, our client had collected an eclectic mix of opals over several years.

The ring showcases a dramatic cabochon of crystal opal from Ethiopia measuring ~ 3/4 inch long. The simple design reflects light into the gem creating a glorious halo of color.

The Ginko leaf motif lends a beautiful flair to these hand fabricated earrings, set with the three matched pairs of white, gray, and black Australian opals.

The whimsical pendant boasts a truly spectacular Ethiopian crystal opal, bursting with brilliant rolling flashes of color.

 

One of the pleasures in making these custom pieces is the interaction with our customers. This client had really good ideas, having seen lots of unusual jewelry at the various shows and exhibitions she frequented. She gave us general directions for the pieces, then let us develop the ideas and execute the construction.

It was especially interesting to see how her taste in gems developed as she collected. Her first purchases were the Australian stones, which we thought were the least exciting of the collection, while her last purchase, the pendant stone is just stunning. Besides buying a quality piece, she got it for a really good price at the Tucson Gem Show. In fact, look for our blog about this wonderful gem, the sources of Ethiopian opal, and buying gems away from home.

So, if you have a collection of gems and just haven’t been able to decide what to do with them, see the team of experts at Mardon. You’ll be surprised how affordable and how much fun having custom jewelry can be.

An Opulent Amethyst Cameo

60 ct Amethyst Cameo in 14K gold

We just acquired this striking Amethyst cameo from an estate. Measuring almost an inch and one half long, the piece is not for the shrinking violet. Imagine the drama of making an entrance wearing this grand purple adornment!

Stone cameos have a long history dating back as early as 3rd century BC. The defining characteristic of a cameo is a raised relief image, in contrast to intaglio, which has a negative image carved down into the material.

Many cameos are made from flat pieces of banded agate, where the carver removes all of the first color except for the image, leaving a contrasting background. Shell cameos made from large saltwater mollusc shells are much more common than stone cameos- being softer material, shell is much easier to carve than stone.

The traditional method of hand carving an image in stone with tiny grinding and polishing tools has given way to ultrasonic mills that create a precise copy from a master carver’s original engraving. Our sumptuous 60 carat Amethyst was created with this new technology and is also faceted on the backside of the gem to enhance brightness and color.

Our Estate Department is a place full of excitement and stories, stocked with modern pieces like our regal cameo ring and vintage survivors of bygone eras. Prices are always fair market, which is substantially below retail prices for new items. You’ll pay approximately wholesale for the gems and precious metals, nothing more.

We are always interested buying good pieces of jewelry and gem materials, whether a single item or an entire estate. We offer consignment and appraisal services to help you to find the right home for your jewelry. Give us a call or come on buy– we never charge to check and clean your jewelry and we’ll let you know if we are interested in purchasing.

Mardon Introduces FireMark to the Inland Empire

Mardon is proud to introduce the FireMark Princess Diamond to our community. We know this very special diamond will quickly make fans because of it’s outstanding beauty and value.

A recently granted U.S. Patent protects the unique features that separate FireMark from all other Princess cuts. A true gemological breakthrough, FireMark’s innovative cutting results in unprecedented sparkle.

The FireMark is the first and only Princess cut that consistently rivals an Ideal Cut round diamond in Fire, Brilliance, and Light Return. Firemark’s average 98% light return is truly remarkable– the typical princess manages only 80% on average.

FireMark innovations also result in its larger appearance for it’s weight and better durability. Best yet, the Firemark Princess is substantially more affordable, weight for weight, quality for quality than the round diamond.

All in all, for an enduring purchase like a diamond, we think your best buy is always the best quality you can afford. Each Firemark Princess Cut Diamond is accompanied by a GCAL Light Performance Analysis and a GIA Diamond Grading Certificate, and each is laser inscribed with the FireMark logo and ID so you’ll know your Firemark from all others.

Mardon is the exclusive source for the Firemark Princess Diamond for Riverside and the cities of the Inland Empire–they are not available through chain stores, discount malls, or on the internet. If you are considering purchasing a Princess diamond, give us a call or come by the shop, we’ll be happy to show you the most perfectly cut Princess Diamond there is…Period.

 

 

Recutting Colored Gems- Closing the Window

Natural colored gemstones come from rare mineral crystals that are found within the earth’s crust. Mother Nature “cooks” various ingredients according to her own unique recipes into crystals of different sizes, shapes, colors and physical properties. For centuries, man has sought out and fashioned these treasures into dazzling objects of beauty and value.

Because of their great rarity and value, gems have traditionally been sold by weight. As a result, gem cutters usually cut to retain a maximum amount of weight from the rough material rather than to craft the most beautiful gem.

The color change sapphire shown below is what we refer to as “native cut”, meaning the gem was cut in it’s country of origin for weight, not beauty. We liked the color but the stone just wasn’t very lively.

1.63 ct Color Change Sapphire, top and side view before recut

Note the top view – the center of the stone is dull and doesn’t reflect light very well. This is because the angles in the center of the pavilion (bottom portion of stone) are too shallow to capture the light coming into the stone and reflect it back to the eye. We call this a window, meaning that light escapes thru the bottom and you can see thru the stone.

The side view shows that the pavilion is off center and is somewhat rounded. This is weight retention that you pay for but doesn’t really provide any benefit of beauty or apparent size.

1.45 ct recut Sapphire

Since the crown of the stone was pretty well shaped, we chose to recut the pavilion only. Our cutter was able to close the window by centering the culet (point of stone), removing the excess weight and correcting the angles so that the stone captures light more effectively. We were able to achieve a much better cut without doing more radical surgery- since we didn’t touch the girdle (outer edge), the apparent size of the stone is the same. The gem now has a brighter more balanced appearance and the color shows better.

In this instance, to close the window, we lost about 11% of the original weight, and of course, we had to pay our cutter. Our rule of thumb to attempt a recut like this is 10-15% weight loss. If we think we can improve the brightness or color appearance, the trade-off of beauty for weight is worth it.

Visit our Gallery of Gems or come by our shop- as well as offering fine stones for sale, we provide full recutting and gemstone repair services. We’ll be happy to show you how cutting affects the beauty and value of gems. You’ll see the difference fine cutting makes.

Jeweler’s Ingenuity or Camouflage

In the course of buying estate jewelry, we run across some very interesting and unusual pieces- witness this necklace that appears to be a rather ordinary Star 0f David, embellished with center round brilliant diamond and single cut diamonds on the points. We didn’t notice the mechanism when we bought the piece but later discovered that the Star opens up to make a simple diamond necklace. Not the greatest design, but definitely not a star.

We know from the information provided by our seller that the piece came from Europe sometime in the early to mid 20th century. The question we have is whether the jeweler who made the Star was just having fun making something for extra utility, a piece that could be worn in different ways or did he have a more serious purpose? Given the persecution of the Jews in Europe after WW1 and during the Holocaust, was his design an ingenious way to preserve a bit of wealth for a Jewish client on the run. Was it a way for the owner to signal his true identity in those dangerous times? We’ll never know, but history certainly gives us some puzzles to contemplate seriously.

If any reader has information about similar designs and their history, we would welcome their comments.  Post directly to the blog or email jim@mardonjewelers.com.

 

 

 

Liz Taylor’s Adventure with the Most Famous Pearl in the World

Last year, after Elizabeth Taylor’s passing, the gem world was all abuzz with the upcoming auction of her famous jewelry collection. Noted auction house, Christie’s, New York would hold an evening sale, December 13, 2011.

When all the bids were in, the sale fetched record amounts for most of her pieces, including almost $12,000,000 for her pearl necklace. A lovely diamond, ruby, and pearl confection by Cartier, the piece features the most famous pearl in the world, a wonderful inch-long pear shaped natural pearl known as La Peregrina. La Peregrina was fished off the coast of Panama around 1570, and has been owned by no less than eight Kings of Spain and assorted other royals.

Natural pearls are and have always been a rarity– in these days of plentiful cultured pearls, we tend to forget how precious and valuable they have been historically. A famous story tells how in 1913, Pierre Cartier traded a single strand of 55 natural pearls valued at 1.2 million dollars for a mansion on Fifth Avenue belonging to banker Morton Plant– that property is now Cartier’s U.S. flagship store at Fifth Avenue and 52nd Street!

I had a secret story to tell about La Peregrina, had thought about it all year, and when the necklace sold for six times the auction house estimate, I decided to share it with Gary Roskin. An old friend and colleague from my days working as a gemologist, teacher, and lab supervisor at GIA, Gary is now a well known journalist specializing in the gem industry, currently publishing the Roskin Gem News Report.

My story is this– In 1981 I left GIA to work with John Latendresse, a noted pearl dealer who was beginning to culture freshwater pearls in the United States. To me, this was an exciting chance to be involved at the ground floor with a truly unique and ground breaking business, so my wife Kaye and I packed our bags and moved with 2 year old daughter Jenny to Tennessee!

John was a real character, leaving the family home in South Dakota at an early age to find his fortune, serving as a marine in WWII — enlisting at age 15! — and working as a casino cashier, boxer, and commercial fisherman, among other things. An avid outdoorsman, he became involved with natural pearls as a byproduct of his main business, the Tennessee Shell Company. The shell company supplied many tons of freshwater pearly mussel shells to the Japanese cultured pearl industry– this thick mother-of-pearl shell is the preferred raw material for making the beads used to nucleate cultured saltwater pearls.

I think it was about the time in 1984 that noted photographer Fred Ward visited John’s pearl farm while working on an article about pearls for National Geographic. John talked with me about repairing Liz Taylor’s pearl– he’d met Elizabeth after her puppy dog chewed on La Peregrina– and matter-of-factly told me he’d “doctored” the pearl, removing tooth marks by “peeling” the pearl

Peeling is a time honored technique developed over the centuries, harkening back to the days when pearls were more valuable than emeralds and rubies. Layers of the pearl are gently and carefully removed, after which the pearl surface is smoothed. The person who does the repair is known as a pearl doctor.

I discussed the story with Gary and Gina Latendresse, John’s daughter who had heard the story from John and has carried on his pearl business, the American Pearl Company,  and we decided to work together to tell the story.  You can read the full story at Gary’s website,  The Roskin Gem News Report.

If you’d like to learn more about pearls or see some fine examples, stop by the shop– today’s cultured pearls are very beautiful, of high quality and  won’t cost millions.

 

 

 

“Deacquisitioning” Gems- A Mardon Specialty

Just in time for Christmas, we completed a very interesting and successful sale for a client who had found us via the Internet last spring. She had purchased this wonderful 5.72 ct. Paraiba tourmaline in the early 90’s, just when the first stones from the Paraiba region of Brazil were coming onto the market.

Prices of Paraiba stones quickly skyrocketed, especially since this small deposit was soon mined out. Collectors and aficionados realized the rarity and uniqueness of these gems and began paying astronomical prices for the best material. The “Electric” blues can sell today for six figures per carat!

When she asked me to sell the stone for her, my experience with fine gems told me it would a challenge, for a couple of reasons. (Continued)

Recycle, Reuse, Repurpose– Diamonds!

“Sunburst” descibes this new ring, a one-of-a-kind original design by Jim and Jenny Sweaney of Mardon Jewelers. The center diamond, just under I/2 ct, is a beautiful warm Fancy Yellow color that we’ve accented with a custom bezel of 18K yellow Harmony gold. The 14k white gold mounting supports six marquise brilliant diamonds that radiate sparkle and add drama to the beautifully balanced arrangement of round gems. Our stock # is I-21382 and the total diamond weight is 1.75 cts. (Continued)