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Fancy Pink Diamonds for the Holidays

24.78 ct. Fancy Intense Pink Diamond

24.78 ct. Fancy Intense Pink Diamond

The gem auction world is all a-twitter over this outstanding emerald cut diamond offered at the Sotheby’s Auction, November 16 in Geneva, Switzerland. Graded Fancy Intense Pink, the diamond is also unusually high in clarity, pronounced VVS2 by GIA. Described as pure pink with no secondary hues, the pre-auction estimate for this ultra-rare gem is is a sizzling hot 27,000,000–38,000,000! Wow!

For an affordable natural color pink diamond, consider this just-completed Mardon pendant, designed by Jim and Jenny Sweaney. We created this one-of-a-kind jewel with all re-cycled gold and recycled diamonds, including the .19 ct. center round, a very nice natural pink we discovered hidden in a flush setting of an estate ring we purchased.

Pink Star Pendant

Pink Star Pendant

Natural color diamonds are one of the rarest of all gems. For the most part, the natural yellow, pink, and blue colors we occasionally see in diamond are delicate pastel shades. Many of the colors are combinations of hues. sometimes desirable, sometimes not. Many natural pink diamonds have brownish overtones and many natural blue diamonds have a grayish or steely look.

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A Sweet Piece of L’ Art Nouveau

Enameled Art Nouveau Sweet Pea Pin

Enameled Art Nouveau Sweet Pea Pin

Every now and then, we see vintage jewelry that really excites us. Recently, while working with a client on her new custom ring, we were discussing what to do with some pieces of jewelry that she doesn’t use anymore. We buy cast off and damaged jewelry to recycle, as well as consigning resalable pieces. As a big fan of all things Art Nouveau, my heart skipped a beat when she laid this enameled Sweet Pea pin in front of me and asked about consigning it.

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The Perils of Paraiba– Jewelers Tears #2

8.65 ct. Cuprian Elbaite, Before Heat Treatment

This tale of woe illustrates some of the risks and challenges we jewelers face in our fascinating business.

Last year, I had seen this lovely 8.65 ct reddish purple cuprian elbaite tourmaline several times. Gem dealer Jack had tried mightily to tempt me with it, an unheated stone from the country of Mozambique in East Africa, an area that is producing controversial vivid blue and green tourmaline gems.

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The Rarified World of the Rarest of Gems

Roskin Blues

Our old friend and former colleague at GIA, Gary Roskin, has published an absolutely fascinating account of a major event at the pinnacle of the gem world. Under the auspices of the Smithsonian Institute, the most famous of all gems, the Hope Diamond, was brought together for the first time with the Wittelsbach Blue, now known as the Wittelsbach-Graff diamond, for the purpose of research and comparison. Part 1 is featured in Gary’s “The Roskin Gem News Report” at this URL,

http://www.roskingemnews.com/Master_Page/Diamonds.aspx.

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Heat Treated Stone Helps Endangered Humans Survive

No Place Like Home

No Place Like Home

The desire and ability to exploit our environment and to utilize and improve the natural materials we find is rooted in our deepest past, and is in fact, part of the reason we are here today.

I was absolutely fascinated by an article in the August 2010 Scientific American, When the Sea Saved Humanity, that describes findings from an archaeological dig on the Horn of Africa. According to author Curtis W. Marean, his excavations in caves near Capetown show the presence of a small band of early humans during the Ice Age known as Marine Isotope Stage 6 (MIS6).  Somewhere between ~195,00 to ~123,000 years ago, because of the cold dry climate, early Homo sapiens on the mother continent of Africa suffered a severe population crash– the population plummeted from more than 10,000 to a few hundred breeding individuals.

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Sapphires Illustrate the Limits of Perception

5 ct. Ceylon Sapphires

5 ct. Ceylon Sapphires

These two  sapphires are both from the island of Sri Lanka, both are heat enhanced, both are from the same vendor, both weigh about the same.

5 ct. Ceylon sapphires, v2

5 ct. Ceylon sapphires, v2

Here’s another photograph, same stones, same photographer (myself), same camera, same photo stage, similar macro lens, slightly different lighting. Can you guess which one costs more?

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A One-of-a-Kind Filigree Engagement Ring

We completed a most beautiful engagement ring a while back but weren’t able to post this blog till now. It was one of the most challenging projects we’ve ever done!

Our clients Megan and Mike, big fans of antique and period jewelry, fell in love with a 1920’s Art Deco platinum ring in our estate department, set with a dazzling one carat Old European cut diamond. We showed them several loose period cut diamonds, but this particular stone had so much life and sparkle they decided to buy the piece, use the stone for her new ring, and save the mounting for later.

Platinum Art Deco


Megan had a general idea of what she wanted– the design had to be lacy and delicate, with triangle-shaped natural blue sapphires on each side of the center. We asked her for design suggestions– she searched the web and came in with about 10 pages of pictures of period rings, all of which had elements that she liked! So the challenge was to get her to focus on what she really wanted.

After consulting with her, we concentrated on floral and ivy patterns, lots of hand engraving, and of course, the diamond and the blue sapphires, to create this first design. (Continued)

A Lesson in Appraising Jade

Art Deco Jadeite Necklace

We’ve been working on an insurance appraisal for this wonderful platinum necklace with diamonds and jadeite from the 1920’s and realized the piece has a lot to teach about grading and valuing jade.

Jade is not well understood by many folks. If I told you that jade can be one of the most expensive of all gemstones, you would probably be surprised– some pieces sell for well into six figures. Even jewelers who really know their way around the faceted stones have a hard time with jade, especially when we don’t often see really good jade like this necklace.

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Restoring the Ring of GIA founder Robert M. Shipley- A Father’s Legacy

Robert M. Shipley, Courtesy of GIA Library

Robert M. Shipley, Courtesy of GIA Library

We thought this would be a great post the week after Father’s Day.

Often at Mardon Jewelers, we’re asked to perform an expert service by a client. Such was the case recently when we restored the ring that originally belonged to Robert M. Shipley, the founder of GIA.

Early in his career, Mr. Shipley realized that the lack of good information about gems was a real problem for the jewelry industry. Without a good base in the science of gems, many jewelers of the time perpetuated misinformation, like using the trade term “Smoky Topaz”– a misnomer for a different mineral entirely, Smoky Quartz, that we still hear even today.

Shipley studied gemology in Great Britain, graduating as the first American FGA,  and became a firm believer in education as the proper foundation for a jewelry business. Besides establishing GIA and writing his famous correspondence course on Gemology, Shipley also founded the American Gem Society, a professional organization of jewelers dedicated to fair and honest business practices plus gemological education for both the jewelry professional and the consumer.

His achievements became models for today’s many gemological courses, laboratories,  schools, and professional groups– Shipley was truly the father of the modern gemological movement.

This writer is privileged to have been educated in residence at GIA in 1976, to have worked professionally at GIA in both the Gem Trade Laboratory and the Jewelry Arts Progam, and to have known Mr. Shipley personally.

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Father’s Day Gift Par Excellence- A Carved Fire Agate

Carved Fire Agates

A service we offer is finding rare gemstones. One of my “quests” at Tucson 2010 was for an unusual stone for a client who owns a stable of Tennessee Walking Horses. One of his horses is a World Grand Champion, so he was interested in a ring he could wear that would bring attention to his stable and horses and allow a bit of bragging as well.

My client had seen a horse-shoe ring with a center diamond carved in the shape of a horse head and thought that might be a good place to start. My idea was that we could do something truly outstanding and noteworthy by using a colored gemstone, so he agreed to give it a try.

We were able to locate these extraordinary carved horse heads of fire agate by master fire agate carver Joe Intili. These are “quarter size” stones, ideal for a large and dramatic man’s ring or an outstanding bolo tie.

The stone on the right actually has been named by its owner, Bob Beaudry— he calls it the “The Strawberry Roan.” Like other famous fire agates, this one certainly deserves a nickname. This museum quality gemstone is one-of-a-kind, absolutely unique and irreplaceable, 100% natural and untreated, and of course truly American– it was discovered at the mine on Slaughter Mountain, Arizona.

Strawberry or just plain Red!

The Strawberry Roan

Even if the artist were to carve the exact same shape, the nature of fire agate means that no two stones are alike or even close! Notice Joe’s deft touch with the material– the eyes on these carved gems look right at you!

My client passed on the Strawberry Roan– turns out he is color blind and couldn’t really appreciate the beauty of these gems. I guess diamond with it’s sparkle and dancing light is a better choice for him.

Even if you are not in the market for an exotic and rare gem like this (and these days, many of us are not!), Mardon offers many unusual gifts for Dad, from affordable items from our famous Raincross Collection or the William Henry studio starting around $150, to unusual estate pieces, and outstanding custom designed creations. If Pop is a sentimental old softie, give him your portrait or a favorite picture in precious metal. Just don’t forget dear old Dad- he deserves your best!